Silberstein, whose watches featured primary colours and geometric shapes as far from the traditional as you could imagine, has come out of retirement to work with MB&F and Louis Erard. This has inspired renewed demand for his own pieces from the 1990s, but it’s not too late to acquire a super-cool time-only Klub Medio for £1,600 or a Rondo Krono chronograph for £3,700. Once collectors catch on, prices will escalate.
When a neglected brand suddenly enjoys a successful relaunch, its original pieces go up in desirability, not down. The most obvious benefactor of this is Tudor, once unloved but now enjoying a near-vertical trajectory for its vintage diving watches and chronographs. £25,000 for a Tudor? Five years ago the response would have been, “You’re insane.” Now? It’s more like, “Where? Where?!?”
One to observe is Doxa – currently undergoing a similar renaissance to Tudor’s – with its legendary diving watches, offered in 2021 in a range of on-point colours. But you can still find original orange-dial Sub 300Ts for under £3,000, the first-ever diving watch with that bold coloured face. How’s that for a 50-year-old classic that looks as fresh as this morning’s bagel and coffee? Get behind me in the queue.
Don’t get stung! Stay mindful of these dos and don’ts…
1. If possible, buy from a reputable retailer. It’s the only guarantee that you’re not buying a fake.
2. Ignore quartz watches except for knock-around sport purposes. Precious few, such as the Rolex Oysterquartz, have any lasting value.
3. If funds are limited, choose a watch with a strap over one with a bracelet. Bracelets add hugely to the cost, especially if in gold.
4. When buying from a dealer, ensure there is a guarantee of at least six months if the watch is being sold as serviced. “As seen” is a red flag, telling you not to buy.
5. Get a friend who knows about watches to examine a piece before you make your purchase.
6. When buying at auction, try to attend the viewing beforehand so you can handle and see the target of your bidding.
7. If buying online, the risks are as bad as unprotected sex, unless it’s from responsible sites such as Watchfinder & Co, Chrono24 or others that offer some form of guarantee.
Tyler, The Creator’s …….